This is the goose that laid the golden egg for pastry chefs …The alchemy of the macaroon
“the battle has been going on since 1997, when the Parisian pastry chef Pierre Hermé re-launched the old macaroon, achieving its metamorphosis with colours, flavours and creamy fillings not necessarily appreciated by traditionalists. Since then, the venerable biscuit has aroused amazing interest. A ruthless rivalry between luxury pastry chefs. And food lovers flock to the Hermé, Dalloyau or Ladurée boutiques. … All cookery historians agree that the macaroon originated in Italy. It was probably introduced in France in 1533 by the pastry chefs of Catherine de Médicis, the wife of King Henri II. Acclaimed by the court, it was also adopted by various religious congregations, including the Benedictines who were not allowed to eat meat. Two Benedictine nuns went on to create the famous Nancy macaroons. Today, the ‘secret’ of their recipe and the Boutique of La Maison des Soeurs Macarons are held by Nicolas Génot, vigilant guardian of the tradition: almonds, sugar and egg whites – nothing else! Free of the slightest hint of flavourings or additives, round biscuits covered with fine cracks “crisp on the outside, soft on the inside” for which “the secrets of the Sisters passed on by word of mouth for over three centuries” confers “an inimitable, indescribable flavour”. For greater authenticity, Nicolas Genot has searched the archives of the Benedictine Sisters’ mother house in Rouen, and confirms “our Macaroon is strictly faithful to the recipe reported by the Médicis’ cooks”. So, “despite the demands of certain customers”, carried away by Parisian trends, the Nancy pastry chef swears that he will never allow himself to make differently flavoured or coloured variations. It is of course impossible to get out of Nicolas Genot the least indication on the nature of his secret, except that he exclusively uses a certain variety of Provencal almonds …